Ear enhancement can be described as more of an art than a science. Recommendations and guidelines exist, but no hard and fast rules can guarantees success. No single method will always work.  Technically proficient taping or gluing will never succeed if the wrong method is employed to correct a problem. Different techniques may be required during the process, depending on many factors. This may need to be done once or twice, or on a weekly basis for months.

For purebreds, ear carriage is a defining point of type.  Ears not only enhance functionality, they are also a hallmark of personality. It is not unusual for someone to become attracted to a particular breed simply because if its magnificent ears. And some of the most magnificent ears require a bit of help to get that way.

This is not always a concern for pet owners. Obviously, taping or cropping is never necessary if a dog is destined to be solely a pet. But pets are also the source of much aesthetic pleasure, and pet owners sometimes perceive correct ear carriage as an important trait.

This can be problematical because ear taping or pasting is a long-range project, requiring continued work and decision making long after a puppy goes to its new home.

For some breeds, it is possible to send a new owner home with supplies, instructions, and a good demonstration. It is easier and more informative to enlist an adult dog for demonstration purposes, although this fails to illustrate the actual difficulty of the process.   Even with adequate advice, this can still be a risky project for a novice. Without the benefit of experience, they cannot always be expected to make accurate observations about the state of a puppy’s ears.

In the case of ears that require only weighting or gluing, the possibility of damage is lessened. At worst, improper technique will lead to disappointing results.

On the other hand, taping can lead to very serious complications if left to inexperienced practitioners. It takes practice to apply tape with precisely the right tension. Obviously, it will come right off if applied to loosely, but overly tight wrapping can cut through ear leather, or compromise circulation- both of which can result in partial or complete loss of an ear. If an ear becomes damaged, successful reconstruction is a dicey prospect. It is extremely expensive, traumatic for the dog and results can be disappointing.

Most puppies will initially scratch at glued or taped ears. This is a natural reaction, which usually subsides as they become accustomed to the sensation.  But, there are times when they have valid reasons to complain. Small injuries, or low-grade infections are not always obvious. Because of the impeded airflow, pasted or wrapped ears are far more susceptible to fungal and yeast infections. This can go unnoticed if you are not experienced in spotting the symptoms.  Infections deep inside an ear canal often reveal no outward signs beyond persistent head shaking and  ear scratching. The  problem may only become apparent through self-mutilation, visible infection, or a disfiguring hematoma of the earflap. And the wide varieties of treatments available for ear problems don’t always result in identical cures. Many budding show careers have been derailed by inept treatment of ear problems.

To further complicate matters, none of these procedures can be expected to adhere to any timeline. Decisions are subjective, based on observation and experience. Breeders “know” when a puppy’s floppy ears are no cause for concern, or a case requiring immediate attention. Ears that appear horrifying to a novice, might not elicit the same reaction from an experienced breeder. For instance, erect ears that suddenly curl backwards often trigger panic if you have not seen this before. They look bizarre and there is no telling if it is temporary, permanent, or proceeding to completely curled ears. For some breeds, curled ear tips are an indication that no further taping is required. For others, it represents a serious setback.

 Novices sometimes fail to notice subtle signs of progress, such as slight lift at the ear base. Or, they become discouraged by ears that stand beautifully for a day or two and then wilt. Allowing ears to flop, fly, curl or hang for more than a day will undermine previous work. Discouragement becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy. Ear management really is a breeder’s territory. If you place a puppy with an inexperienced person who intends to do this-, do not expect success unless you can personally participate in the process. And all of the potential risks and problems should be clearly outlined beforehand.

Well done, the results can be dazzling. Artificial enhancement not only facilitates proper carriage, but in many cases can bring nearly miraculous improvement to less than perfect ear set, which can be coaxed into a higher, lower, tighter or wider position simply through judicious gluing and taping. For instance, raising the base of the ear on the head will shorten the superior suspensor (supporting muscles) and lengthen the inferior retractor muscles at the base of the ear.

Or it can create entirely new cosmetic problems, which can be permanent. Many standards permit some variation in ear carriage, but no standard allows for asymmetrical ear carriage. If ears fail to respond to a particular technique, diligent efforts may be useless. It may very well, intensify the problem you are trying to fix.

Ear support comes in many forms but generally includes some combination of molding and bracing through the use of splints, tape and/or glue.

Splints come in every shape and size, limited only by your ingenuity. Ear splints can be homemade from just about anything. As long as it can be easily cut to fit, and provides adequate support, many materials will fit the bill. Sharp edges must be smoothed or covered to avoid irritation. It should be inexpensive because new supports are required for every taping session. Reusing splints almost guarantees infections, and shape and size must be constantly refitted as puppies grow.  Traditional wire ear racks are sturdy and easy to use, but they don’t offer customized fit.  Thin sheets of plastic, such as x ray film, can be easily cut to fit any shape or size. Cardboard, ice cream sticks, drinking straws, molefoam and tampons are also popular for ear supports.

Supports can be attached to ears by use of tape or glue. Tape should be strong enough to stay put for at least a week. One-inch width is the easiest size to work with. Breathable tapes, such as Dermicel are easier to remove and inflict less coat damage, but they don’t stay put and don’t provide a lot of support. Athletic tape, waterproof tape, or breathable cloth tape are good choices. Zonas tape, made by Johnson and Johnson is the most popular brand. Some tapes, like masking tape or duct tape, although very sticky and inexpensive, are not recommended because they can easily cause permanent ear damage by impeding circulation, or peeling skin off the ears. Cheap ear tapes can lead to very expensive vet visits. If you are not sure how it will feel to the dog, always try it on yourself first.

Some wrapping methods employ a combination of tape and glue. This can get messy and requires practice and dexterity. Puppies will complain long and loud if their hair becomes caught in tape or glue, which can be almost impossible to avoid with an uncooperative puppy. If the puppy is not accustomed to the procedure, enlist some help, and do this when they are sleepy or otherwise preoccupied with a bone or toy.

The most popular ear glues are skin bond adhesive, available from surgical supply companies, and fabric glue available from craft and hobby shops. Fabric glue has become so popular for setting ears that it can be found for sale at many dog shows. Some brands work better for certain techniques, consistency, stickiness and drying time varies considerably. It does not adhere well to non-porous surfaces, like skin.   For breeds with short hair or shaved ears, thin lines of glue can be applied to ear edges, and pressed together for fine adhesion. For gluing directly onto skin, you will need surgical glue or skin bond adhesive.   Many wrapping and taping methods involve coating the inside of the ear flap with glue, and attaching supports that have been wrapped with tape, sticky side out. It takes a bit of practice to judge drying time and place the supports on the first try. Repositioning supports, or reapplying glue can turn into a hopeless mess. Sometimes it is better to simply start over.

The stickiness of tape and adhesive backing can be greatly intensified by the application of ether. It also works great as an adhesive remover. Needless to say, make sure you have good ventilation. Ether based solvents, or engine-starting fluid in aerosol form can be sprayed onto the adhesive, and within a few seconds it will become extremely sticky. Tape or molefoam can be securely attached to skin this way. Repositioning is very difficult and it should never be used to attach adhesive to hair.

For puppies refuse to tolerate any type of ear splints it is sometimes possible to achieve adequate ear support with several overlapping strips of heavy tape to the back of the ears. Apply each strip of tape from base to tip, and cover this with a spiral wrapping of tape from base to tip. Sticking power of the outer wrapping can be enhanced with a coating of starting fluid or glue. This outer wrapping must not be applied too tightly. The resulting curved shape should remain open enough to permit good circulation and daily inspection.

Superglue and nail glue are never recommended for any of these procedures.

Before you use any type of glue, do a test patch, and make sure that you have a guaranteed removal method on hand. Allergic reactions to adhesives are not unusual. Tape can be removed quickly, but glue can lead to big problems. Skin bond adhesive is sold with its own remover. Acetone, or nail polish remover also works well for some brands of glue. And don’t forget to do a test patch with the remover.

Splinting is often supplemented with crossbracing, wrapping a bridge of tape from ear to ear over the top of the head.  This enhances support, and in some cases can improve ear set. It can also cut, pucker, or crease the cartilage. Applied to tightly, it will chafe or cut into ear edges. Bracing the ears too high on the head can pull the tips inward, creating creases either on the inside or outside tips. Or it can weight the ears down rather than supporting them upright. Bracing will support ears into an upright position, but they should have something in place to provide shaping and molding for the ear base to prevent the shape of the cartilage from becoming distorted.

For breeds that require a folded ear carriage, folds can be set into place with glue. This is accomplished either by gluing the ears into their folded position, or gluing them strategically into position on the sides of the head. Once the ears are set, they may be left in place for two to four weeks at a time.

 Although this seems less complicated than bracing, it requires a lot of practice.  Without some experience, it is tricky to calculate the optimum position for gluing. Proficient setting can create impressive cosmetic improvements, such as making overly large ears look smaller, and wide ears appear narrower.

Because ears are left in this artificial position for a greater length of time, there is a bigger risk of inadvertently creating creases, puckers, or permanently asymmetrical ear carriage. There is also an increased possibility of ear infection if regular ear cleaning is neglected.

Like taping regimes, there is no definite timeline for ear setting. It may require a few weeks of work, several months, and occasionally a year.

It is not unusual for the ears to be carried slightly high, or crooked immediately after they are unglued. But they should settle into normal position within two or three days. If not, immediately reset them and pray.

Some coat damage is inevitable with any of these procedures. Even smooth coated breeds will lose some hair from rubbing and scratching. The face, neck, head, shoulders, and especially the ears will bear the brunt of damage.  Obviously, the increasing weight of the hair growing on the ears will be counter productive to taping efforts. For some breeds, it is preferable to trim, thin or shave the ears for the duration of wrapping. Sometimes this is not an option.

For breeds requiring ear fringe, the hair can be employed as part of the support system.  This can be accomplished by separating miniature dreadlocks of hair from the appropriate section of the backs of the ears, pulling them together to achieve the proper tension, and applying glue. It takes some practice to select the right spot for support, which can vary from the top to the bottom of the ear. Placement and anchoring of these cords may also require revisions as ear carriage begins to respond. A good solvent will be needed to remove the glue from this hair later on.

Arbitrary removal of ear wraps every week is not necessary and not recommended. It will cause unneeded trauma for the puppy and accomplish nothing. Wrapped or pasted ears should be checked on a daily basis for irritation, odor, and loosening, crooked tapes. If no problems arise, it can be safely left in place two weeks or more. Tape and glue will naturally begin to loosen after a week or ten days due to the accumulation of dirt and skin oils, and the assistance of littermates.

Most of the time, puppies lose interest in mangling each other’s ear wraps as the novelty wears off. If they persist, the habit can be discouraged by the application of various distasteful substances, like Vicks, Bitter Apple, or Oil of Cloves.  Ears that have been pasted down are far more vulnerable to puppy damage. Tiny nips from sharp puppy teeth can lead to hematoma of the earflap.  In some cases, it is necessary to protect pasted ears by wrapping a layer of tape around the puppy’s head

Wraps must be removed whenever the puppy is bathed. Adhesive removal and ear cleaning should be incorporated into your regular grooming routine. Ears need to be cleaned frequently and thoroughly for the duration of any of these procedures. This is a tedious job, which it is often tempting to forego, especially if it involves a whole litter of puppies. But that is a mistake. In the long run, careful cleaning will minimize the work. It not only prevents infections, tapes and glues adhere much more readily and firmly to clean ears, free of dirt and oil. If your puppies seem to shake off their ear wraps quicker than you get them on, make sure that you are applying them to clean ears. Tiny bits of adhesive clinging to ears will be a magnet for dirt and infection, and definitely adds weight to the tips.

Step 1. Remove all residues of tape and glue with solvent before bathing. Soap and water will remove all traces of solvent.

Step 2. Scrupulously clean the ears twice with ear cleaner, alcohol, or peroxide and make sure they are thoroughly dry. Any moisture in the ear canal can set the stage for infection. Some breeders recommend applying a bit of gold bond powder to the ears after a bath, to absorb moisture and prevent infection. Avoid applying any oil based cleaners or ointments such as Panalog, to the ears before wrapping or pasting. They take a long time to dry, and will prevent any tape from sticking.

Step 3. Pluck all hairs from the ear canal. Dogs frequently have an accumulation of excessive hair in their ears, although it is not mentioned as an important aspect of maintenance for every breed. If not removed, it will be a persistent source of irritation, impeding circulation and drawing infection into the ear canal. This is especially important for breeds with naturally narrow ear canals.

If the ears appear sore, chafed or irritated, leave them to dry thoroughly before wrapping them again.

Careful cleaning will minimize, but cannot prevent the possibility of infection or irritation. In that case, you have no choice but to lose time until the problem is cleared up. Under no circumstances, try to tape or glue ears that are not in perfectly healthy condition, although allowing them to remain in an undesirable carriage for any length of time will undo the previous efforts.

If ear carriage looks good when the tape is removed, it is fine to give the puppy a break from the taping regime. But it is vital to resume artificial support if they begin to show signs of failure.  They may need continuous or intermittent support for weeks, or months. Frequently, formerly impressive ears experience a strange metamorphosis during phases of rapid growth or teething.. This can be very discouraging, but ears do not adhere to any schedule. If your efforts managed to achieve desired results at any point in the process, this will return once the puppy overcomes temporary demands of maturation.

Skill and perseverance are the secrets to successful ear enhancement; there really are no shortcuts. Dietary supplements, vitamins, acupuncture, ear massage or special diets will not bring about any miraculous transformation of bad ears.

One thing that can make a big difference is training. There is a big psychological component to ear carriage. Puppies should be encouraged to “use their ears” as part of their basic puppy training. Clicker training is a simple way to impart the message, but toys, treats or vocal cues can be equally effective to elicit an alert expression on command.  It should be incorporated into your regular training routine. In addition to the psychological reinforcement, it will strengthen the ear muscles and build “muscle memory” for good ear carriage.