Anyone who
has judged Chinese Cresteds invariably has something to say about toplines. It’s true that the description in the AKC
standard differs from all others. “Topline level to slightly sloping croup.” The general worldwide consensus is
that Chinese Cresteds should have level toplines. The Kennel Club standard asks for “a level back” and the FCI
standard states, “the topline is level.” This was also the requirement in past versions of the American standard.
Essentially it still is.
Regardless
of that, no one can dispute the fact that this breed is suffering from an epidemic of bad toplines. However, it’s important
to realize that roaching, sagging, dipping and bouncing toplines are merely a symptom. To understand these defects we need
to examine the causes. Every part of dog’s anatomy is interrelated like pieces of a puzzle. Subtle changes in one aspect
of structure will resound through the entire dog. A weakness in one area will cause other parts of the body to compensate.
Topline problems
are rarely due to actual physical curvature of the spinal column. They are almost traceable to some structural weakness of
the front assembly, rear assembly or both. Once the dog starts moving, various groups of back and loin muscles are forced
do the work that a faulty front or rear assembly cannot. This is why many Cresteds look fine when stacked, but fall apart
so dramatically when they get going, especially when they are moved at a trot on a loose lead.
The current
standard describes Crested movement as “Lively, agile and smooth without being stilted or hackneyed, comes and goes
at a trot.”
Structural
problems that cause bad toplines are increasingly obvious when a dog speeds up to a trot. At slower gaits the body is always
supported by three legs with plenty of time to make transitions when each foot is alternately picked to swing the next leg
forward. “All gaits produce a shock to the front assembly, but if a trotter’s shoulders are correctly placed,
this shock passes through them with a minimum effect, being absorbed by the muscles, and there is less rise and fall to the
withers and back line, which should be apparent to the eye [ ...] This shock is ever present in the dog’s trot. Some
are so constructed as to absorb the most of it while others manifest it quite plainly.” (The Dog in Action, McDowell
Lyon)
When speeded
up to a trot, the dog must rely on two alternating pairs of diagonal legs for balance, support and momentum. Energy is transferred
from the rear to the front much faster. Balance must be maintained by forward momentum with only two feet are on the ground
at one time. For maximum smoothness and efficiency, all four legs should be doing exactly the same amount of work at this
speed.
On the go
round, a trotting Crested is evaluated on the gracefulness and effortlessness of its movement- mainly based on what its topline
is doing. In order to smoothly transfer support from one set of legs to the other they must lift and hit the ground simultaneously.
Although it is not true for all breeds, a Crested’s topline should remain perfectly level at trotting speed. A slight
amount of movement in the topline is inevitable as drive from the rear transfers weight from one diagonal pair if legs to
the other. But this should be nearly imperceptible if the dog is well constructed.
A major cause
of a bouncing topline is unbalanced front and rear angulation. In this breed, (and many others) excess rear angulation is
often coupled with inadequate shoulder angulation. In that case, the lift and forward thrust produced by the front and rear
action will inevitably be out of synch.
The Crested
standard states “Layback of shoulders is 45 degrees to point of shoulder allowing for good reach.” The validity
of 45-degree shoulder angulation is a continuing topic of debate. However, there is not much debate that for most breeds,
including this one, it’s desirable for the forearm to be longer than shoulder blade, obliquely placed to slope down
and back to the elbow.
The AKC standard
is silent on this point although the KC and FCI standards both state that the forelegs should be set under the body. This
construction situates the front legs well under the head and neck providing maximum support at the dog’s center of gravity. Short, straight forearm is one of the most common structural problems plaguing this
breed and one of the primary contributing factors to topline problems.
For efficient
trotting, the angle of the forearm should balance the angle of the shoulder blade, and as noted, the Crested standard asks
for 45-degree shoulder layback. Even though it’s not specifically stated, that implies the forearm should be long enough
to create approximately a 90 degree angle between shoulder blade and forearm.
This articulation
between the shoulder and forearm not only allows for unrestricted reach and follow through; it produces a smooth blend of
neck into shoulder.
The shoulder
blades should come together like a tent over the highest point of the thoracic vertebrae. Steeper articulation re creates
an abrupt transition at the point where the neck meets the shoulder. This dip at the shoulder can be easily felt. It is clearly
visible on a hairless dog and often highlighted by an obvious crease or wrinkle at this juncture. It also creates the characteristic
short, choppy steps that often accessorize a bouncy topline.
The length
of stride produced by a 90-degree angle between shoulder blade and forearm generates the power to lift the body’s center
of gravity as the dog moves forward. The forearm provides the needed leverage
to lift the body and pivot the shoulder blade.
“The
great mobility of the shoulder blade as partner to the action of the upper arm, which serves as a lever in lifting and transporting
the central body forward as smoothly as possible” (Rachel Page Elliot, Dogsteps) A short, straight forearm deprives
the dog of essential leverage forcing it to waste a lot of energy trying to lift its center of gravity rather than moving
itself forward. Many Cresteds try to compensate by using their loin muscles to create this needed lift. The latissimus dorsi
muscles attach from the loins and last four dorsal vertebrae. They are anchored by tendons to the forearm near the shoulder
joint at the other end The cumulative effect of this compensating action is the classic “dipping and roaching”
topline of a poorly constructed Crested on the move.
This problem
can be somewhat disguised by the popular practice of stringing the dog up tightly on the lead or placing the lead at the side
of the neck to force its weight backwards off the front to the rear. But even this won’t conceal it for very long. It
is not only an exhausting gait; it also produces an abrupt shock to the front assembly with every step. Wear and tear will
show after a couple of laps around the ring
The forearm
plays another crucial role in producing smooth gait by absorbing and recycling shock. The length of the forearm has a direct
bearing on the shock absorbing capacity of front assembly. Properly constructed, there should be minimal impact as the front
absorbs and recycles energy from the rear at a trotting pace. Ideally, the footpad should hit the ground when the leg is fully
extended. The shock of impact passes up column of bones through the shoulder blade to coincide with its arc of movement. “By this action, the head of the blade is not driven straight into the muscle
assembly like a battering ram” (The Dog in Action, McDowell Lyon)
There are
also a multitude of rear assembly faults that can be directly responsible for topline flaws. One of the most prevalent is
known as “rubber hocks.” Inverted hocks, rubber hocks or slipped stifles have plagued this breed for as long as
anyone can remember. Many versions of the standard, including the pre 1991 version mentioned this problem specifically. Our
present standard does not.
The hock
is a hinge joint. It should not move freely in both directions. Rubber hock is a term used to describe hock joints that bend
easily forward and backward. Because the joints are inherently unstable, Cresteds afflicted with this problem try to avoid
bearing weight on their hocks more than necessary. They tend to repeatedly shift their weight when stacked with their legs
extended and prefer to stand with their back feet under rather than behind their bodies.
A dog’s
hind legs are not designed to efficiently support its weight. The sturdiest rear assembly is not nearly as strong as the front
assembly. Simply give a gentle push to your dog’s shoulders and hips to confirm this. Correctly built, the rear assembly
obviously does support a fair amount of body weight but it is mainly designed to generate power.
To produce
strong thrust that transfers power directly to body the rear legs must completely and powerfully retract and extend. The hind
leg is made up of the thigh bone and second thigh which should be approximately equal in length, and the hock, which should
be substantially shorter, straight and sturdy for leverage and stability. “Hocks are the cornerstone of rear assembly”
(Pat Hastings, Tricks of the Trade)
A lack of
stability at the hock causes the joint to twist rather than push when the leg is flexed. The hock is unable to exert the necessary
thrust when foot is on the ground or extend the hind leg rearward for follow through. To try and compensate, the dog may resort
to excessive lift of the hind leg at each step or use its back muscles to do this work. Major muscle groups attached to the
back of pelvis pull the leg backwards and straighten stifle to produce thrust. Either
choice can explain that classic “high in the rear” topline.
Our current
standard does allow some wiggle room for variations and interpretations of correct topline. Human nature being what it is,
interpretations often lead to rationalizations to excuse or ignore problems. Before you conclude that a bad Crested topline
is simply due to temporary stress or cold, take a closer look at the rest of the dog.